in-cosmetics Global: naturalness and upcycling as recovery ingredients

As determined as they are to meet the crucial traceability needs evoked in brands’ marketing content, suppliers keep focusing their efforts on the search for natural ingredients.

Starting from a fruit species cultivated and harvested by hand on Reunion Island according to zero waste principles, Gattefossé developed the new Solastemis active whose molecules are extracted from chayote, also known as Christophine. Solastemis promotes protection against photoageing by preserving keratinocyte DNA from the damage induced by UVAs.

Greentech used yellow gentian roots sustainably handpicked in France to develop the Myralis active, which targets problems on the eye contour area, the upper eyelids, the Valley of Tears, dark circles, and bags.

Robertet showcased their range of natural actives for nutricosmetics and cosmetics, including flagship ingredients Lipowheat, a source of phytoceramides, and Keranat, a millet extract which prevents hair loss. It was also an opportunity for the Grasse-based company to highlight the ActiScent range, playing on the duality of olfaction and the physiological properties of the perfumer’s natural raw materials. These active perfumes can offer firming benefits, like ActiScent Aqua Criste, or fortifying virtues, like ActiScent Lovely Flower.

Creating meaning with upcycling

Beyond naturalness, upcyling seems more and more desirable as a proven means to prevent resource and energy waste.

Cosmo Fragrance developed the Golden Berry natural ingredient based on dried chalice of physalis, a fruit sourced from an ethical Columbian farm. “It is a really common fruit consumed in South America. Its envelope had not yet been exploited. Consumers definitely need authentic rhetoric. Today, they do want natural products, but they want them to come from traceable chains with well-identified producers,” explains Alexandrine Demachy, General Manager France. Extracted with supercritical CO2, this ingredient offers anti-ageing cosmetic properties as well as floral, fruity notes for perfumes.

Eurofragrance drew inspiration from wood to develop its first captive. The Barcelona-based composition company showcased L’Âme du Bois, which is obtained from chips from a particular essence. L’Âme du Bois is meant to create premium perfumes of all categories: fine perfumery, home care, and personal care. “It is a multifaceted innovative ingredient, it seems to act as a bond between all kinds of woods,” says senior perfumer Angéline Leporini-Poubeau.

As for Lucas Meyer IFF, they upgraded perfumery by-products to create the Wastar collection using the residues obtained from the extraction of the natural olfactory compounds of the LMR Naturals by IFF range. At the show, they introduced pink peppers, with Wastar Pink Berry, which soothes scalp irritation, helps reduce redness, and calms itchiness, but also lavender, with Wastar Lavender, which protects the skin from indoor pollution by strengthening the skin barrier function, reducing inflammation, and enhancing the skin’s brightness for a radiant, healthy appearance.

Mibelle also produced a new active derived from upcycling: SLVR’Coffee, a coffee silver skin extract, is a by-product derived from coffee bean roasting which hydrates and comforts dry skins.

Giving the skin its natural beauty back

Directly inspired from the holistic beauty trend, the skin’s brightness and ability to reflect joy of life and health constitute a recurring theme of the search for cosmetic ingredients.

Solabia associated two new natural actives in relation to this issue. Sealight beautifies radiance with an eye contour action on dark circles, bags, wrinkles, and crow’s feet. This new, organic-certified ingredient is rich in sulphate arabinogalactans exclusively contained in the Codium fragile algae and sustainably harvested on the Portuguese coast. It reactivates microcirculation to offer cells optimum nutrition and enhances elasticity for a global anti-ageing action and a brighter gaze.

Derived from kale, a detox superfood cultivated in an organic cooperative in Brittany, the Neoglow plant-derived active offers gentle organic exfoliation suitable for dry and sensitive skins. Combined with a generous quantity of isothiocyanates, this exfoliating effect boosts the cell metabolism needed for skin detoxification and epidermal renewal. Neoglow provides a global revitalizing effect.

Also banking on the ability of living organisms to repair themselves, Silab launches the Regenixir anti-ageing natural active of biotechnological origin. Due to its global action, Regenixir promotes the regeneration of mature skins.

No water, no alcohol

Solid, powder, leave-on cosmetics, substitution with floral waters… all these approaches are in line with the major current expectations related to water preservation. Solabia put this issue forward with the Waterless box which offers various face, body, and hair care solutions formulated accordingly, using only two teaspoons of water for all eight products showcased.

A renowned specialist in the natural perfume segment, Expressions Parfumées showcased their NatCo perfume range designed for the organic market. The Touch Natco technological innovation now makes it possible to offer a solid version of these natural perfumes.

In addition, the AquaBoost NatCo technology developed three years ago to substitute alcohol with water in perfumes is now available for natural perfumes, known for being more difficult to solubilize. This patented technique consists in diluting a concentrated natural perfume at a concentration of 30% in water for a final dose of 10% in the perfume. With this aqueous base, the final Cosmos-certified result offers an olfactory intensity estimated at 93% after 4 hours and 85% after 24 hours.